First thing's first: Never pick!
It goes without sayingbut I'm going to anywayyou should never pick at a pimple. "Acne in and of itself is inflammation under the skin," explains Shari Marchbein, MD, the Clinical Assistant Professor of Dermatology at NYU. "When you pop a zit, you are adding insult to injury, causing more inflammation, redness and swelling than what would have been there in the first place." If that weren't enough to scare you, picking can also lead to permanent scarringas in for life if you get overly aggressive. Instead, work smarter to get rid of your pimple by using a topical treatment with the right ingredients.
Salicylic Acid works best for blackheads.
You likely know if you have blackheads, but just in case here's a refresher: "Blackheads are categorized as an open comedone and are characterized by a dilated or widened opening of a hair follicle caused by a build up of sebum (oil produced by sebaceous glands), P. Acnes bacteria (the primary bacteria responsible for causing acne) and inflammation," explains Dr. Marchbein. Salicylic acid is the ingredient you'll want to look for to clear out this build-up. "It's a beta hydroxy acid that will help remove excess oil from the surface of the skin and exfoliate dead cells to keep pores clear and clean," says Joshua Zeichner, MD, Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research at The Mount Sinai Hospital. Remember to apply it over the entire area where you tend to see blackheadsnot just as a spot treatmentto not only treat the existing blackheads but to help prevent them from coming back.
Adapalene works best for whiteheads.
While you might think of a whitehead as a bump with a white dot on it, they're actually small, skin colored bumps that develop when oil blocks the pores but do not have a large opening to the skin surface says Dr. Zeichner. He recommends topical retinoids to clear these up. "Adapalene is a topical retinoid that's available over the counter and is approved to treat acne. It enhances cell turnover and prevents cells from sticking togetherwhat causes the blocked poresto clear whiteheads," says Dr. Zeichner. While this should helpespecially for preventing new whiteheadsyou may need to go to a dermatologist or esthetician to get existing ones professionally extracted. Repeat after me: You are not Dr. Pimple Popper .
Benzoyl Peroxide works best for papules and cysts.
A papule is a superficial red bump with a whitehead buried deep beneath while a cyst is essentially a balloon under the skin that's filled with oil. Both of which never surface and can't be popped. "These develop when the pores become blocked and significant inflammation develops typically fueled by high levels of acne-causing bacteria on the skin," says Dr. Zeichner. The solution: Benzoyl peroxide. It helps lower levels of acne causing bacteria on the skin and reduces inflammation.
Hydrocolloid patches are best for pustules.
The name may have given it away, but these are pimples where the puss has come to a head. While they may seem prime for popping, don't do it! Instead, apply a pimple patch. The hydrocolloid bandage will help draw out the fluidaka the pusswhile keeping your skin calm and shielded from grime-covered fingers.
If the zit is not getting better, consult an expert.
If your acne persists after at least eight weeks, it's best to book an appointment with your dermatologist. "Acne treatments are not one-size-fits-all," says Dr. Marchbein who shared that most of her patients require a customized combination of prescription creams to help clear up their acne and keep it at bay.